A bowl of ramen with condiments on a restaurant counter

Food Guide

Shikoku Pilgrimage

~1200 km · 88 temples · Shikoku, Japan

Ayu sweetfish from the Shikoku Pilgrimage
Ayu sweetfish by Andrew Yong

An o-henro (pilgrim) is never too far from good food on the Shikoku Pilgrimage. The route crosses four prefectures, each with its own food culture. Convenience stores provide onigiri and baked goods that carry easily between temples, while each prefecture brings its own specialties. Tokushima has sudachi and pork-and-soy-based ramen; Kochi has bonito seared over a flame; Ehime serves sea bream over rice; and Kagawa finishes the route with thick udon in a lighter broth. In autumn, markets turn toward chestnuts and mountain mushrooms.

Food System

On the Shikoku Pilgrimage, lodging meals are part of the route infrastructure. Food support also comes from the ordinary places a pilgrim passes through.

Meals at lodging

Firsthand · Verified

Meal plans at minshuku and ryokan shape the day’s food planning. The meal is part of the stay, alongside the route through sacred mountains, villages, cities, and coast.

Everyday food access

Firsthand · Verified

Convenience stores, restaurants, and markets provide everyday access to meals and provisions between temples. Onigiri and baked goods are practical food to carry.

Temple stays

Firsthand · Verified

Shukubo are one way to encounter temple cuisine on the Shikoku Pilgrimage. Book a temple stay at least a week or two ahead to balance spontaneity with planning.

Osettai

Firsthand · Verified

Osettai from local people are chance happenings rather than a provisioning system. They are offered freely and cannot be planned as part of a food supply.

Tokushima

sudachi country

Tokushima combines coastal fish, dark ramen, and sharp citrus. Spring dorome are tiny transparent sardines eaten raw with soy sauce and grated ginger. Tokushima ramen brings pork-bone and soy broth, pork belly, and a raw egg yolk; Naruto fishcake and sudachi soba extend the local vocabulary. These foods meet pilgrims among coastal plains, river country, and the first mountain roads between temples, where osettai may appear along the way.

Minshuku PandayaMinshukuFirsthand
View place

Japan, 〒779-1510 Tokushima, Anan, Aratanocho, Miyanokita−36 / Tokushima / Try: Takenoko gohan, oden, sumiso takenoko

Minshuku Pandaya is family-run lodging near Temple 25, with a set dinner and breakfast included. Dinner includes takenoko gohan, oden with konjak and vegetables, and tempura maitake mushrooms, among other dishes. Breakfast brings rice, small dishes, and seasonal mountain vegetables, including takenoko prepared several ways and dressed with sumiso.

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Ohenro Inn & Restaurant NishimuraMinshukuFirsthand
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​6-1 Kayahara, Ue-Ono cho, Anan City, Tokushima / Tokushima

Ohenro Inn and Restaurant Nishimura is a pilgrim inn with dinner and a packed meal for the road. An example dinner includes ayu sweetfish and homemade umeshu, while the morning pack may include onigiri, an egg, and a banana for the next walking day.

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Otoriien RyokanRyokanFirsthand
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Nishiyamada-33-4 Oasacho Bando, Naruto, Tokushima 779-0236, Japan / Tokushima / Try: Tamago unagi, dorome, glazed eel

Otoriien Ryokan is a traditional inn near the beginning of the Shikoku Pilgrimage, with dinner and breakfast included. Dinner includes glazed eel, pickled vegetables, seaweed tofu, sashimi, and tamago unagi, among other dishes. Breakfast includes dorome, fish, salad, omelette, and miso soup, with the menu shaped by the season.

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Kochi

bonito country

Kochi’s food follows its Pacific coast and inland rivers. Katsuo no tataki is seared over straw, sliced thick, and served with ginger, garlic, and ponzu; yuzu sharpens sauces; and ayu brings a spring taste from inland rivers. Covered food halls and communal tables make shared meals part of the experience. Long coastal roads, mountain crossings, and temple approaches connect these foods across the section.

Guest House Sakura-anHostelFirsthand
View place

Teramae-114-6 Okugawachi, Minami, Kaifu District, Tokushima 779-2305, Japan / Kochi

Guest House Sakura-an is a traditional Japanese-style house in Hiwasa, a fishing village in Tokushima, renovated as simple accommodation. Its first-floor Nikenme Bar offers traditional sake, Japanese tapas, and snacks, while the house provides homemade breakfasts and dinners, including a Japanese breakfast and vegan menu for pilgrims staying overnight.

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Hirome MarketMarketFirsthand
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2 Chome-3-1 Obiyamachi, Kochi, 780-0841, Japan / Kochi / Try: Katsuo no tataki; karaage; sushi including sea urchin; yuzu spritzers; beer; sake

Hirome Market is a covered food market in Kochi with stalls and shared tables. Pilgrims find katsuo no tataki, karaage, assorted sushi including sea urchin, yuzu spritzers, beer, and sake in a communal setting that gathers several food and drink options under one roof.

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Iwamotoji TempleShukuboFirsthand
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3-13 Shigekushimachi, Shimanto, Takaoka District, Kochi 786-0004, Japan / Kochi / Try: Vegetarian meals; fish

Iwamotoji Temple offers shukubo lodging on the Shikoku Pilgrimage, with communal meals served at long tables. Meals include vegetarian plates and a pescatarian plate, followed by breakfast before the morning ceremony.

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Kurousagi Farm Guest HouseFarm stayFirsthand
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1110-1 Shimonagatani, Mihara, Hata District, Kochi 787-0812, Japan / Kochi

Kurousagi Farm Guest House is a farm-stay with home-cooked dinner and breakfast for walkers. Meals include roasted fish, yogurt with strawberry jam, and vegetable sides, making the guest house a food stop within a rural Kochi walking day.

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Minshuku UrashimaMinshukuFirsthand
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Japan, 〒781-7107 Kochi, Muroto, Motoko, 甲1901-4 / Kochi / Try: katsuo no tataki

Minshuku Urashima is a traditional minshuku near the approach to Kongōchōji (Temple No. 26), offering Shikoku pilgrims lodging with home-style dinner and breakfast. One dinner there included katsuo no tataki, sashimi-grade katsuo flame-seared at the edges.

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Okinohama Guest HouseMinshukuFirsthand
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3182 Oki, Tosashimizu, Kochi 787-0301, Japan / Kochi

Okinohama Guest House is a minshuku with breakfast for pilgrims. An example morning meal includes miso soup, scrambled eggs, and a whole squid, giving walkers a substantial start before continuing along the Kochi coast walking route on the pilgrimage.

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Riders ParadiseCampgroundFirsthand
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Sakihamacho, Muroto, Kochi 781-7220, Japan / Kochi

Riders Paradise is a campground with an on-site cafe that serves dinner. Camping on the property lets pilgrims combine a trail meal with a place to sleep during a coastal walking day in Kochi Prefecture.

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Ehime

sea bream in two styles

Ehime’s food follows its Inland Sea coast, citrus stands, and fishing towns. Tai meshi appears in Matsuyama style, with whole sea bream cooked in dashi and rice, and in Uwajima style, with raw slices, egg yolk, and dipping broth. Jakoten turns small bony fish into a briny fried cake, while mikan marks the citrus trade. Minshuku meals bring these foods to the walking day between temple approaches and coastal roads.

Dear U Uwajima Guest House & CaféHostelFirsthand
View place

4-19 Tsurushimacho, Uwajima, Ehime 798-0060, Japan / Ehime / Try: Soufflé pancakes, matcha, taimeshi

Dear U Uwajima Guest House & Café combines hostel lodging with a café serving soufflé pancakes and matcha. In Uwajima, taimeshi is prepared with thinly sliced sea bream over rice, egg yolk, and dipping broth. It is one local food option among the city's specialties, with Uwajima Castle nearby for a town stop.

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Goyōmatsu-sōRyokanFirsthand
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1480-1 Doicho Ueno, Shikokuchuo, Ehime 799-0721, Japan / Ehime

Goyōmatsu-sō is a ryokan that provides dinner for pilgrims walking through Ehime. Its lodging with an evening meal gives walkers a place to eat and sleep within a Shikoku walking day along the pilgrimage route.

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Guesthouse & Bar UchikobareHostelFirsthand
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3025 Uchiko, Kita District, Ehime 791-3301, Japan / Ehime

Guesthouse & Bar Uchikobare is a guesthouse and bar in a renovated traditional house at the entrance to Uchiko’s preserved townscape. Dinner and drinks make it a natural evening stop for pilgrims, with a bar setting where travelers can eat, talk, and stay under the same roof.

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Haccho-ZakaRyokanFirsthand
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甲1609-7 Shimohatanokawa, Kumakogen, Kamiukena District, Ehime 791-1212, Japan / Ehime

Haccho-Zaka is a ryokan with dinner for pilgrims walking through the Ehime mountains. An example includes fresh kogomi, giving walkers two ways to encounter the seasonal mountain vegetable along the route.

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KOMATSU Business RyokanRyokanFirsthand
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甲-203-3 Komatsucho Shinyashiki, Saijo, Ehime 799-1101, Japan / Ehime

KOMATSU Business Ryokan is a ryokan with dinner for pilgrims walking through Ehime. Individual hot pots include vegetables, chicken leg, shaved meat, and dipping sauce, providing a self-contained evening meal after a day on the route.

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Matsuchiya RyokanRyokanFirsthand
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3 Chome-324 Uwacho Unomachi, Seiyo, Ehime 797-0015, Japan / Ehime

Matsuchiya Ryokan is a traditional ryokan with dinner for pilgrims walking through Ehime. An example meal includes whole-roasted sea bream, chicken katsu, marinated and tempura bamboo, and steamed rice, bringing fish, mountain vegetables, and rice together at the lodging.

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Nakano Udon SchoolCooking classFirsthand
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Japan, 〒761-8081 Kagawa, Takamatsu, Nariaicho, 8 / Ehime / Try: Sanuki udon; raw udon

Nakano Udon School offers a hands-on class in Sanuki udon making. Participants mix and knead the dough, press it with their feet, roll it out, and cut the noodles to width. The fifty-minute session leaves participants with raw udon to cook later, alongside a special rolling pin.

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Shiraishi RyokanRyokanFirsthand
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417 Komatsucho Ishizuchi, Saijo, Ehime 799-1112, Japan / Ehime / Try: Mountain vegetables; river fish

Shiraishi Ryokan is lodging near the Mount Ishizuchi trailhead with a dining room for lunch, a shop, and meals for staying walkers. Dinner centers on mountain vegetables and river fish, while breakfast supports an early start toward the Mount Ishizuchi summit hike.

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Tado VillageHotelFirsthand
View place

283 Kamitado, Uchiko, Kita District, Ehime 791-3513, Japan / Ehime

Tado Village is an accommodation in a renovated kindergarten. Bento-box meals arranged through local restaurant partnerships provide a practical option before or after the mountain pass toward Kochi, while shared laundry and refrigerator facilities support long-distance travelers.

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Kagawa

Japan's udon heartland

Kagawa is udon country. Sanuki udon has thick, chewy noodles in light dashi broth, and self-service shops open before the temples, sometimes at six in the morning. Udon-making experiences turn kneading the dough with the feet into part of the meal; Kotohira serves hearty uchikomi udon as well. Temple roads and urban walking lead through the final section of the Shikoku circuit.

BED N CHILL ShippoyaHostelFirsthand
View place

1 甲436 Minocho Omi, Mitoyo, Kagawa 767-0031, Japan / Kagawa

BED N CHILL Shippoya is a hostel with beer offerings for pilgrims in Kagawa. Its drinks include Kūkai beer and udon beer, giving walkers a place to include distinctive beverages in a Kagawa lodging stop.

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Hostel JAQ TakamatsuHostelFirsthand
View place

28-18 Nakanocho, Takamatsu, Kagawa 760-0008, Japan / Kagawa / Try: Shabushabu, hamachi sashimi, olive pork

Hostel JAQ Takamatsu provides hostel lodging and a communal dinner in Kagawa. An example dinner includes hamachi sashimi with thinly sliced olive pork, enoki mushrooms, and cabbage. The pork and vegetables cook briefly in kombu stock, then are dipped in a soy-based sauce and eaten as shabushabu. The menu changes by stay.

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Miki RyokanRyokanFirsthand
View place

3 Chome-3-25 Honmachi, Sakaide, Kagawa 762-0044, Japan / Kagawa

Miki Ryokan is a ryokan that provides dinner for pilgrims walking through Kagawa. Its lodging with an evening meal gives walkers a place to eat and sleep while moving between temples on the Shikoku Pilgrimage route.

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Foraging

Bamboo Shoots (takenoko)

Season: March–May

Young bamboo shoots appear in spring and are most tender when they first push through the soil. Simmered, sliced, and dressed with miso and vinegar, they are tender and flavorful. They require blanching to remove bitterness before cooking.

Japanese Knotweed (itadori)

Season: April–May

Itadori is Japanese knotweed, a sansai, or mountain vegetable. Its stalk has a lemony flavor similar to rhubarb and may be cooked with dashi and soy sauce. It also appears marinated in country rice.

Butterbur Scape (fuki)

Season: April

Fuki is the butterbur plant, a sansai with a stem that can be grilled with a little oil and seasoned with soy sauce, bonito flakes, and sesame seeds.

Ostrich Fern Fiddleheads (kogomi)

Season: April–May

Kogomi is the fiddlehead of the ostrich fern and a sansai. Juvenile ferns may be warabi or kogomi. Kogomi is served as lightly battered and fried tempura with soba and as a fresh vegetable.

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Food Map

An interactive map of food spots, cooking classes, regional dishes, and wild foods encountered on the Shikoku Pilgrimage, drawn from Brandon’s firsthand walking experience.

Open the Shikoku Pilgrimage food map

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